搞清楚流程,是应对 Primark 验厂的第一步。Primark 的审核逻辑可以概括为:先审核、后下单;每年至少审一次、以不通知为主;有问题出整改计划(CAP)、有红线直接不批准。
一、谁来审?
“Audits are conducted by either Primark or one of our approved Third-party audit companies and once approved, have regular follow up audits.”
—— Primark Social Audit Performance Statement 2023
即审核的执行方有两种:
- Primark 自己的审核员(基于采购国的 Primark 员工);
- Primark 认可的第三方审核公司。
Primark 不公开发布这份”认可的第三方审核公司”名单。如需了解具体由哪家机构执行,请看《Primark认可的第三方审核公司名单(查证结果)》。
ABF 集团报告进一步说明:
“These audits are carried out by Primark employees based in sourcing countries, and also by carefully selected third parties.”
费用谁出?
由 Primark 承担全部审核费用。
“We bear the full cost of these audits, which are undertaken by Primark or a third-party on our behalf, and most of which are unannounced.”
在土耳其的公开答复中 Primark 也重申:”Primark pays for the cost of all its audits”。这与部分”工厂付费”的验厂项目不同。
二、审核的类型与频次
| 审核类型 | 说明 | 通知方式 |
|---|---|---|
| 初始审批审核(pre-supply / initial approval) | 新工厂在接单前必须完成,是 onboarding 的一部分 | 100% 不通知 |
| 年度审核(regular audit) | 已获批工厂至少每年一次 | 大多数不通知 |
| 跟踪审核(follow-up) | 针对整改计划完成情况的复核 | 以不通知为主 |
“先审核、后下单”:
“Any new factory producing goods for resale must undergo a social audit as part of our onboarding process… No orders are placed until the factory has been audited and approved… Approval is dependent on acceptable audit results and is not guaranteed.”
年度频次:
“Once a factory is approved to produce Primark products, Primark continues to assess the factory by conducting an audit at least once a year, with the majority of these audits being unannounced.”
——《2025年现代奴隶制声明》第5页
2024年的实际数据(《2025年现代奴隶制声明》附件二,统计口径为2024自然年):
- 98% 的一级供应商工厂接受了审核(其余2%因计划停产);
- 91% 的审核为不通知审核(不含初始审批审核——初始审批审核始终不通知);
- 全年共执行 2,468 次审核。
关于”通知/不通知”的表述差异
不同文件的措辞并不完全一致:
- 《供应链人权政策》(2025年8月):”we audit every Primark-approved facility at least once a year, unannounced“(均为不通知);
- 《2023现代奴隶制声明》脚注:”All Primark audits are unannounced. Audit conducted by ILO Better Work are semi-announced,即供应商会收到一个审核时间窗口”;
- 《2025现代奴隶制声明》:”majority of these audits being unannounced”(大多数不通知)。
实际数据显示2024年为 91% 不通知(不含初始审批审核)。建议工厂一律按”不通知审核”准备,且注意:由 Better Work(ILO)执行的审核是”半通知”的——供应商会提前得知一个时间窗口,这与 Primark 自己的审核不同。
三、审核评级:Grade 1 / 2 / 3
Primark 对工厂的合规状况分三级,Grade 1 最好,Grade 3 最差:
| 等级 | 官方定义 |
|---|---|
| Grade 1 | “Good systems in place to ensure ethical compliance, limited number of minor issues.”(体系良好,仅少量轻微问题) |
| Grade 2 | “Evidence of some good systems in place, however, not achieved full ethical compliance.”(有部分良好体系,但未完全达标) |
| Grade 3 | “Ethical compliance not met, with significant and numerous issues.”(不合规,存在大量重大问题) |
关于三档占比
Primark 在《2023年社会审核表现声明》中公布了三个占比数字:2%、35%、63%。但该 PDF 的图表没有在可提取文本中标注哪个数字对应哪个等级,因此不要直接写”Grade 3 占63%”——如需引用,应以官方图表的原始标注为准。
四、零容忍与不批准
“Any factories with critical or zero tolerance issues would not be approved.”
—— Primark Social Audit Performance Statement 2023
集团层面的口径是:
“We expect our businesses to apply the principles set out in our Group Supplier Code of Conduct, including our zero tolerance of forced labour and modern slavery.”
—— ABF《2025年现代奴隶制声明》
简言之:存在关键(critical)或零容忍(zero tolerance)问题的工厂,不会被批准。常见零容忍方向包括童工、强迫劳动、体罚/骚扰等(具体清单以 Primark 官方评定为准)。
五、整改:纠正措施计划(CAP)
一旦审核发现问题,就进入整改流程:
“Where any issues are identified through an audit, a corrective action plan is put in place, which outlines any areas for improvement and the agreed actions required to make those improvements.”
“At the end of each audit, supplier factories are issued with a time-bound corrective action plan.”
—— ABF《2025年责任报告》第40页
注意两个关键词:time-bound(有时限) 和 agreed actions(双方商定的措施)。也就是说,CAP 里的完成期限是审核现场与工厂共同确认的,逾期未完成会直接体现到下一次审核结论里。
六、最严重的违约:未经授权分包(Unauthorised Subcontracting)
这是 Primark 文件中处罚规则写得最明确的一条:
“Unauthorised subcontracting by a supplier is strictly prohibited and constitutes a breach of our contracts with suppliers.”
“If unauthorised subcontracting is suspected, we conduct an unannounced assessment of the authorised site to verify.”
“If unauthorised subcontracting is confirmed, the approved factory linked to this will not be able to receive orders from Primark until the supplier and the approved factory can demonstrate they have put in place measures to manage and prevent any further issues of unauthorised subcontracting. Our local team will also perform an assessment of the unauthorised sites to identify any violations.”
——《2025年现代奴隶制声明》第10页
处理逻辑是:
- 怀疑违规 → 对已授权工厂做不通知的现场核实;
- 确认违规 → 停止下新订单,直到供应商和工厂举证已建立防止再犯的措施;
- 同步 → 当地团队评估未授权的场所,识别违规情况。
2024年数据:共发现 53 起未经授权分包事件。
对工厂的实操建议
“接受第三方生产”这件事必须事前申报。Primark 的合同里明确界定了什么构成未经授权分包,并在 onboarding 阶段就向你说明。很多工厂栽在这一条上,不是因为恶意,而是因为”接急单时临时借用了兄弟厂的产线”却没有申报。
七、风险导向与国别风险评估
Primark 采用风险导向、以工人为中心(risk-based, worker-centric) 的方法:
“Country risk assessments: we use external reports and publicly available, credible information sources to build assessments for every country we source from. This includes political, economic, social and legal analysis and risk-mapping.”
“We conduct specific risk assessments covering all clauses in our Supplier Code of Conduct annually. In 2025, this assessment focused on all countries listed on our Global Sourcing Map.”
与 Target、Walmart 不同,Primark 不对外公布“高风险国家/地区分级名单”(如红黄绿国家清单)。它更多是内部用外部风险数据(集团层面使用 Verisk Maplecroft 等工具)来做审核资源投放。
八、典型案例:土耳其审核频次加倍(2016年)
2016年,围绕土耳其叙利亚难民工人的报道,Primark 公开了应对措施,成为”按风险动态调整审核频次”的实例:
“100% of our suppliers’ sites were audited during 2015… we doubled the frequency of our audits in Turkey, which now take place every six months… All of our follow-up audits in Turkey are now unannounced.”
即:高风险地区的跟踪审核可以变成每半年一次、且全部不通知。这条对工厂的意义是——”去年刚审完”并不意味着今年不会被突击审核。
九、结构安全:不止审劳工
除社会责任审核外,Primark 还有一个并行的结构完整性计划(Structural Integrity Programme):
“its Structural Integrity Programme was established in 2013 in Bangladesh… expanded to Pakistan and Cambodia in 2023.”
—— ABF《2025年责任报告》第40页
对孟加拉国、巴基斯坦、柬埔寨等地的成衣工厂来说,厂房结构安全(结构与防火)是审核中最容易被开重大问题的部分。
十、常见不符合项
Primark 自己承认问题集中在哪:
“The most frequent non-compliances identified during 2023 audits fall under the category of Working Conditions.”
“Living Wages and Working Hours, including excessive overtime, remain challenges for us.”
—— Primark Social Audit Performance Statement 2023
2024年的强迫劳动相关指标:
| 指标 | 2024年 |
|---|---|
| 非符合项中属”雇佣自由选择”(Employment is Freely Chosen)条款的比例 | 0.29% |
| 上述非符合项已完成整改的比例 | 53% |
| 发现的未经授权分包事件 | 53 起 |
结论
工时与工资是主战场。工厂若想稳定通过 Primark 审核,优先把三件事做扎实:考勤与加班自愿性证据链、工资计算与最低工资合规、招聘费用与证件管理。
本文主要资料来源
- Primark Social Audit Performance Statement 2023:https://primark.a.bigcontent.io/v1/static/Primark-Social-Audit-Performance-2023
- Primark《2025年现代奴隶制声明》:https://primark.a.bigcontent.io/v1/static/Modern-Slavery-Statement-Final-2025
- Primark《供应链人权政策》(2025年8月):https://primark.a.bigcontent.io/v1/static/supply-chain-human-rights-policy-english-august-2025
- ABF Responsibility Report 2025:https://www.abf.co.uk/content/dam/abf/corporate/Responsibility/2025-pdfs/responsibility-report-2025.pdf.downloadasset.pdf
- Primark 2016年土耳其问题公开答复:https://media.bhrrc.org/media/documents/Primark.pdf
